2nd post of today, lucky that I pick a very good day to learn surfing...
Greg was my surf instructor who made me break the 1st wave in Australia....
with a super long and ''stupid looking'' board...with loose fit wetsuit...we went to a beach near to the lighthouse...safe, wind, tide, rip, waves...5 principles all should be in surfers' mind...
you know what? yoga is incorporated into surfing...not by me but Greg...he used yoga poses as warm up stretching! his concept is.....with grace in the waves....focus...and relax the body for flexible reacts....lucky that Greg made me confident to myself, he did not let me on board as very beginner ...no knees on board are allowed...only down dog and jump up on board...haha....so good that I got it for the 1st trail happy happy!! Gigi, core up and jump on the board, gaze in the front, use core...relax and you can surf longer....if I look into the waves....they swallowed me definitely...the board will goes down into the water instead of with the waves...really cool!!!
core up, gaze in the front, relax and feel the waves....sound easy...ha....I just can on board for few seconds....haha...yeah...one more thing is...yogi-surf made a hurt at the tail bone by landing by my bomb...so...what I need to do is...take care of my tail...no surf until no pain at all. I think I like this new sport...I will be on board and surf in longer wave....I can do it! haha...I am quite sure that I will come to Australia again in 2012 for meeting my friends and the great nature!! or as my friends always said, I can find my soulmate here so Australia will not let me go....ha...just kidding!!!
sharing...
1) core up, focus are always useful for whatever we do. It's something made you away from injuries physically and mentally....
2) yoga is something from inside, practicing yoga is a way making yourself to listen your inside voice more easily....by listening to your voice...you will be focus and will not shift to the fears (waves here)....
3) Greg is a nice maturer guy....ha...with strong bonding...he had over-expectation of my surfing path....haha...funny feeling. come on...that was my 1st time surfing...I can do it in coming year anyway!
P.S surfing is dangerous in my dictionary, but without a try, I will never know why many people have fun in it. with Grace in Waves (Fears here)...again...it's interesting and I am glad that I paid the surf lesson because I asked myself to do something that I am scared....haha...but it's still dangerous, it's about all things not only for surfing...''safe and principles'' should always be in mind.
Hugzzzz
Gigi
xxxxxx having soya mocha at somewhere....
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